Boat Yard CXXIX

8-4-13


     I took my boom swivel back to the welding shop to get it fixed so it wouldn't lock the mast in the raised position. Here are a couple pictures showing the fix. In the picture to the left, you can see a little piece of round stock welded into the horizontal loop. This keeps the loop from slipping down when the boom is raised. A simple fix and it works as advertised. In the picture to the right you can see the swivel slipped over the end of the boom. The plate to the right of the boom will be secured to the mast.

 

 

 

 

     Here are a couple pictures of my hinged step fit onto the end of the mast.  It fit pretty well with just a little whittling. The only problem I see is with the alignment of the screw holes between the side and the front and back angles.  I will have to use shorter screws on the front and back angles to avoid interfering with the screws on the side angles.

 

 

 

8-13-13

          As I mentioned earlier, back in early April, I installed my air horns and they really sounded great. The only problem was that the air storage tank wouldnít hold pressure. The compressor would pump the pressure up to about 108 psi. Then after about 10 to15 minutes the compressor would come on again because the pressure had dropped to about 98 psi. I have spent the past 4 months, off and on, trying to figure out where the air leak was. I have replaced the air pressure gage, most all of the fittings on the air lines, most of the air lines and still the pressure bleeds off. I have called the people I bought the horns from a couple of times and they kept giving me suggestions as to what to try next, and nothing I tried stopped the leak. I finally decided I needed to isolate the solenoid valve which was mounted on the horns themselves to see if it was leaking. I thought if I took it off the horns and mounted it on the pressure tank, none of my air lines would have pressure on them until I pushed the horn button to blow the horns. I mentioned this to the people I bought the horns from and they said no you canít do that because the solenoid wouldnít work if I mounted it to the pressure tank. I couldnít understand their reasoning because if I hook the thing up the correct way, it should work the same as it does on the horns. So, I did that and I still had the leak. That told me that there was one of possibly three reasons for the leak. The solenoid was leaking, the pressure switch was leaking, or the tank itself was leaking. I purchased a new solenoid and a new pressure switch and installed the new solenoid this morning. I turned the compressor on and it pumped the pressure up to its normal 108 psi. I watched as the pressure began to bleed off so I crawled under the cabinets again and soaped every fitting I could find on the pressure tank. I found no leaks. I crawled back out from under the cabinets and looked at the pressure gage and it was holding about 2 psi below where the compressor shut off. When I left the boat, about three hours later, the pressure was still holding. If the pressure holds overnight I will be satisfied that I wonít have to listen to that compressor every 15 minutes. I guess it was the solenoid after all but it took me a long time and a lot of frustration to figure it out.

           I havenít done anything new lately so there isnít anything to take pictures of. Iíve been working on my mast and mast boom on the workbench and I have them almost ready for the final coat of paint. I put the second coat of primer on the boom today, and the mast is done and ready for the topcoat. I have finished pulling the last of the electrical wires through the mast and I only have the TV coax and the VHF antenna cable left to pull and I can close it up as soon as I get it painted. I need to get the bilges cleaned and ready for the last coat of paint in the engine room and the steering locker finished and ready for the last coat of paint and then I will mix up my paint and do all of them at the same time. Once I open the part B of my paint it is only good for a couple of weeks so I need to get everything ready before I do that.  

           I checked my clamps in the engine room and found quite a few that werenít all stainless steel even though they said they were all stainless when I bought them. Many only had a stainless steel band and the screw was mild steel so I decided I had better replace them with all stainless clamps. I found some of the clamps had rusted already around the screw and I found one that had actually come loose already. I spent most of today changing out the clamps that werenít all stainless. I still have about twelve left to do, but I couldnít find them locally so I had to order them on line. As soon as they arrive, I can finish the replacement of the rest of them. I also finished installing the aft braces for my thrust bearing mounting plates today as well. Now I have the mounting plates braced fore and aft so they arenít going to go anywhere no matter how much of a push or pull load is put on them. I have also finished assembling my fuel transfer panel. I cleaned the pump compartment so I could install the panel and not have to remove it again for cleaning behind it. I only have two headliner panels to install in the engine room and everything is done down there. Then I can lightly sand all the bilge areas and get it ready for the last coat of paint. It really doesnít need another coat, but there are several places where I have dropped a tool or something and dented the bilge planks a little which breaks the paint surface and that will allow moisture to penetrate into the wood so I decided I had better give the whole bilge area another coat to seal any breaks in the paint. I have also started putting diesel fuel in the boat. I was going to have a truck deliver the fuel all at once, but because Iím not using it for agricultural purposes I have to pay tax and delivery charges on it even though it is off road diesel. That adds up to more than I can get it for at the local gas station. So, I decided to just get my gas cans filled whenever Iím in town and fill it that way for a little less money.

            Iím really hoping itís going to cool off down here in Florida pretty soon because once I get the everything painted, I need to start working on the fly bridge to finish it up and right now it is well over 125 degrees by noon up there next to the roof of the building. You just canít work up there right now. I have had to go up there once or twice to pull a wire or something, and it is so hot it actually takes your breath away, itís overwhelming.

8-24-13

      I finally got a few pictures of some of the things I have been doing lately. To the left I have secured all my little name tags to the overhead console. The double sided tape wouldn't keep the tags in place so I drilled holes in the tags and screwed them to the panel. They won't fall off now. To the right is a picture of my fuel distribution panel. The valve labels had the same problem, so I drilled some holes in the valve handles and tapped the holes so I could screw the tags onto them. It was a lot of work, but it worked pretty well.

 

 

 

      I had to do the same thing with my fuel polishing panel. To the left is a picture of the pressure side of the panel and to the right is a picture of the suction side of the panel. There are a lot of valve handles to drill and tap in these two panels and it took some time, but now the labels won't move or fall off. Below is a picture of the shaft seal crossover hoses that I got all hooked up to the engine raw water system. If one engine isn't running, the other engine will pump cooling water to the shaft seal of the down engine which is needed because the shaft will still be turning because of the prop turning as the boat travels through the water.

      With everything completed in the engine room except the final coat of paint on the bilges, I have moved into the steering locker. I have all my steering components put together with the proper geometry and it all works as it is supposed to. I have spent a few years trying to figure out how to mount my sensor for the rudder angle indicator gage. I was trying to attach the sensor to the tiller arm and it just wouldn't work. I couldn't get enough travel out of the sensor to match the travel of the tiller arm. I finally decided to try to attach the sensor to the tie bar and see if I could make that work. The picture to the left shows the mounted position of the sensor relative to the rudder shaft. To the right is a picture of the sensor and the attachment point on the tie bar. There is a very long piece of linkage between the two points which finally gave me the travel I needed out of the sensor. Below is a picture of the little bracket I made to attach the linkage to the tie bar. I just took a short piece of aluminum flat bar and twisted it and bent it at 90 degrees. I then clamped it to the tie bar after I drilled a small  hole in it for the linkage. It works great.