Boat Yard XLII


       Here are a couple of pictures that show how I made the transom door slide. In the picture to the left you can see the groove in the doorframe opening and in the picture to the right you can see the male portion of the slide which is attached to the doorframe itself. Worked out great and should stand up to heavy seas against the transom.







       I finished the transom bulwark door and the doors on each of the raised decks port and starboard. In these two pictures you can see the doors in place on the raised decks. I had a lot of trouble with these because the doors had to have a twist built into them to allow for the  flare of the bulwark but I finally got them to fit properly. I also got the bulwark frames glued and screwed along the starboard side back to the transom. In the picture to the left you can see them installed, except for the first three aft of the raised deck. These I will leave out to make lifting the engines in a little easier.



       I've also been working on the rub rail along the bow area. In the picture to the left you can see I have the topsides all sanded and faired to accept the first layer of the rub rail. I need to get the rub rail installed before I put the outside paneling on the bulwark. To the right is a picture of where I cut the topsides back to make the paneling come out flush with the topsides at the stem. The rub rail will taper down to nothing at the very forward point so I had to relieve the topsides to make the paneling come out flush. This is just another one of those unexpected developments that I have run into throughout this project.




     To the left is a picture of the rub rail on the workbench. I had to figure out the angles on the top and bottom edges that would taper the rub rail down to the proper width after laying up all four layers to fit the cap which is about one inch wide half round stainless steel. There will be three layers of fir and one layer of oak under the metal cap. To the right is a picture of the first layer fit and clamped in place. I had the same trouble with the rub rail that I had with the sheer clamps when I tried to spring them around frame two during the hull building. Because of the flare of the hull, the rail wants to raise at the far end as you spring it around the curve of the hull so  you have to twist it as you bend it around to make the end come out at the proper point along the topsides. It's amazing how much you can actually bend a 1 x 4 before it breaks. You do have to pay close attention to the orientation of the grain of the board or it won't make the bend without breaking. This is the second piece I tried to bend around the curve of the hull, the first one didn't make the bend and snapped in half.